Gooseberry, citrus, wet stones, baked figs, plums, cat’s pee, tobacco boxes, leather, under-ripened pears, asparagus…. How do winemakers do it? It is as if the entire grocery store is in a glass of wine!
To clear up a few misconceptions, in the United States, we don’t chapitalize, or add sugar to wine and we don’t add food flavoring or coloring. At least some of us don’t (look up Mega Purple!).
But there are a few things winemakers can add to increase flavor intensity. Winemakers can acidify wine through adding lactic acid to soften the flavor (creamy, buttery) or even to liven it up a bit (citrus, grapefruit) in warmer climates. Wine can also be inoculated with many different varieties of yeasts.
While there are many, the three central components to emphasize flavor in wine are weather, maturation, and aging. Weather is probably the key component to how a wine will taste. Great grapes create great wine, mediocre grapes can never make great wine no matter how great the winemaker is. Weather dictates the acidity, sugar content and varietal flavor. Weather can also create a complex wine or flat wine. Sun gives grapes that added sweetness and the cool nights give build up the essential acidity. This is why vintages are so important to wine buyers.
Maturation is the time wine sits in either oak or stainless steel to the time it is bottled. Oak provides a tremendous amount of flavor as to the wine. Oak imparts the vanilla, coconut, toasty, and spicy flavors. Different types of oak (French, Hungarian, American) and the way the barrels are toasted and the staves are cut also introduce different flavors. Maceration in Stainless Steel tanks and neutral oak (used oak barrels) may not give off specific flavors, but more lack-there-of in oak influence.
Last, aging either in cask or bottle also can determine flavor. How much time a wine sits in a barrel or age in a bottle can have such an effect on wine. Years can go by and wine can transform to something simple, to something that tastes extraordinary.
By Lindsey Roffey, GM RM Winery, USSA Adv Sommelier